Last week, despite the forecast of rain, I wrote about the problems of fall drought. Given my success and a long look at the forecast, I will try to return sunshine before you read this. I have no power on the weather, but with well over ten inches of rain I am hoping for a few days to dry things out.

With an eye on the calendar, not the thermometer, I realize that the fall planting season is slowly leaving us. I will offer the following very general rule of thumb. The larger the plant, the later in the season you can work. In other words, trees and shrubs can be planted later. We are also at the prime-planting season for spring bulbs.

What I really want to do today is to get back to that group of evergreen plants that I was concerned about last week. With late planting, if the roots do not become somewhat established you can have moisture problems. The leaves or needles of these plants continue to respirate and use moisture which the roots have difficulty supplying. In severe cases this can be deadly.

If you are working with this group, you have several options. First, they make a product called an anti-desiccant, which reduces transpiration (breathing) and moisture loss. The ones I have used come as a molasses-like liquid that is diluted with water and then used as a spray. They are a pain to use but are quite effective.

Second, anything you can do to prevent the plant from wind or direct sunshine will also reduce water loss. I get nervous about wrapping plants because it is an invitation to rodents, but it works.

Third, and what I am about to practice, is wait for next spring. It also should be noted that most broadleaf evergreens and conifers like a soil that is a bit lower in pH than is normally found in our area.

Azaleas, rhododendron and hollies start a list of plants that can be rather unhappy with the pH over 5.5. One that low doesn't occur in many places here. The easiest way to lower pH is to apply sulfur. With a soil test you need three pounds of sulfur to drop the pH from 6.6 to 5.5 for every 100 square feet of area. It takes nine pounds per 100 square feet to get from 7.0 to 5.5.

If you don't test I would suggest several pounds per 100 square feet before you plant and about a pound each year thereafter to keep the plants happy. If you know where you are planting any of the acid loving plants in the spring, now is a great time to apply sulfur so the soil will be ready in the spring.

You can get the same benefit from some of the sulfate forms that are in fertilizers. The action will be slower. Stay away from aluminum sulfate since the aluminum is quite toxic to plants. The sulfur I use comes in 30-pound bags and is rather inexpensive. I don't know if smaller sizes are available.

If you are in new construction, be aware that buried debris from cement or drywall will raise the pH rapidly. New cement walls or walks will do the same. A dozen years ago I planted a patch of azaleas on a protected north face of my house. One died. I replaced it. It died. I found some shards of drywall there. I'm now growing an empty spot there. It's doing well.

A final suggestion for fall planted container plants. Wait until he ground starts to freeze and then mulch lightly. This will provide a more uniform temperature in the root zone.