Many of you know that in a previous life I was briefly a teacher. I guess that reinforces a belief that lifelong education is necessary for our well-being. You can't miss it talking to me and I confess it is the chief motivation for writing this weekly column.

So it should come as no surprise that this winter I am making weekly treks to Harrisburg Area Community College for a series of twelve horticulture classes or lectures. I also confess that occasionally I enjoy political incorrectness. I try to limit that to twenty times a day.

Thus, I enjoyed it when the instructor destroyed one of the most remembered lines from the American Revolutionary War when he said "Give me Round-up or give me death." I suspect that this common weed killer plays a role in his garden.

If you are committed to complete organic methods, you have my admiration. You can also stop reading now. I love to pull weeds but some of those characters are persistent enough that I consider using chemicals. The rest of this column will explore the ins and outs of using Round-up in the garden.

Round-up is the most recognized and widely used weed killer in horticulture. It is rather short lived in the environment and quite targeted in its action. No pesticide is without risk but this one is rather benign in my mind.

It targets the chlorophyll or the green part of the plant. It then translocates (moves) throughout the plant including the roots, thus killing the offender. It is safe to use around the base of mature trees. Somewhere I was told that after three years bark is mature enough, or chlorophyll free, to not be damaged by Round-up. As you push that envelope your risk of damage increases.

Continuing from the last paragraph, Round-up has no effect on seeds or as a surface treatment unless there is actively growing green there.

With normal growing temperatures, the job is done in three to five days and you can cultivate if you wish. Remember that when you cultivate you bring new weed seeds to the surface and face additional problems from weed germination. I used some about the first of November. After ten days, the first traces of action is visible.

There are a number of formulations available since it is now off patent. Recent ones include a surfactant, which speeds the knock down factor and increases its range of effectiveness.

Application can be as a general or targeted spray remembering if it is green and it is hit, it is dead. If you have a severely weed infested area I would suggest several applications because there are spring weeds and winter weeds.

In other words, there are different weeds for different seasons. Time your applications four to eight weeks apart and have patience. The most discouraging garden experience comes when you plant into a base of weeds.

A wipe application is very effective if you are after weeds growing among desired plants. There is a commercial wick on the market. The homemade way of targeting selected weeds is to don a long rubber glove first. Then add a cheap fabric glove. Dip the glove in non-diluted Round-up and touch the targets. Beware of the damage that a drippy glove can do.

On some of the toughest perennial weeds an application in the fall as the plant reverses translocation and food is moving to the roots is most effective.

Don't surrender the opportunity to have dirty hands. Pull some weeds, but sometimes a little assistance enhances our gardening efforts.