In a conversation several days ago a gardener was exclaiming about the merits of several clematis vines that she had planted three years ago. Since clematis is not on my list of plants that you can just plop in the ground, ignore and reap great rewards, I asked for her secrets of success.

To my dismay, she said she had done exactly what I had told her three years earlier. That wasn't the learning experience I was hoping for.

The most help I could get was when she stated that each spring as the first new growth shows she prunes severely, leaving only about two feet standing above the ground. Her claim was that since the vine grows so densely it would be impossible to do it any differently.

The first bit of needed information about clematis is that they prefer a warm body but must have cold feet, especially during the hottest part of our year. Although I am not an advocate of deep mulching, here is one place I would make an exception. Selecting companion plants that would shade the roots is another way to cool the roots.

One successful strategy is to plant a clematis under one of those great flowering spring shrubs that are worthless the rest of the season. Lilacs come quickly to mind.

As I check landscapes as I travel the roads, it is obvious that there are happy clematis in the yards at many Amish farms. When I asked, I was told that they add a cup of lime when they plant and a half-cup each year thereafter.

A recent paper I read suggests that clematis need a ph of 7.0. That's neutral for those who know that scale. Most shrubs and perennials are happy at 6.2 and lower. The hollies, rhododendron, azaleas, blueberries and the like need ranges somewhere near 5.5.

The middle range for most perennials and shrubs is easy in our soil, however one must work constantly to maintain either of the extremes needed for the above listed plants. To raise it use lime. Lime comes in degrees of fineness. The smaller the particles, the faster it will work. To lower it use sulphur, sawdust, wood mulches, (pine is better) and an acid fertilizer.

Generally, clematis death comes from unhappy roots based on temperature. I believe the small flowered ones are a bit tougher than the large flowered ones.

The major problem that baffles most growers is when the vine suddenly wilts. This is caused by a fungus that can only invade the plant through an injury. If this occurs, quickly remove the wilted part, cutting below all obvious damage and remove the diseased part from the area. Burning it is a good idea. Usually this infection is not fatal to the plant if attended to in a timely fashion.

To avoid plant injury and the wilt fungus be very careful when handling a clematis. The stems are quite brittle and easy to break. I suspect the woman discussed earlier has another secret when she waits until growth starts to prune.

I still wish I knew what I had told her three years ago but I am sure that the above includes some new material. My goal is to learn something new about plants everyday. Conversations like the above help.