One of the first plants I added to my landscape when I built the house 16 years ago was a rather common, light purple, large flowered and leafed rhododendron. It got stuck in a corner facing directly east so it has little to fear from the winter wind or the afternoon sun.

My soil consists mostly of shale with some rather ordinary soil in the spaces between the small stones. I'm not sure my shale qualifies as a stone but it sure needs more time than I have to weather into real soil. That gives drainage, so the plant cannot complain about living with wet feet.

No questions asked, the chief problem with growing rhododendrons or the many plants in the same family is root or collar rots. You will spot this when the whole plant or a side rapidly withers. By the time you see the evidence, the damage may be irreversible and the plant lost. With root rots the key is prevention. Chemicals will treat the disease but not repair the damage the plant has. In other words, they are generally a waste of time once damage appears.

To prevent root rot, pick a site that is well drained. The heavier your soil, the tougher this gets. Heavy soil can be amended with compost or a raised bed built to mitigate the problem. Fortunately, few of us in this location have problem clay soil.

Other factors that contribute to root rot are excess watering and planting too deeply. The plants should be set at the same level they grew in the nursery or just a wee bit shallower. Also think about the source of the plant.

To my dismay, parts of the nursery industry seem more intent in chasing dollars than producing good plants. If the plant was grown with excess water and fertilizer to rush the growing process, it is a less healthy plant. Your impatience in the garden can produce the same results.

Collar rot, like root rot, is caused by a fungus and produces the same symptoms and results. Planting too deep and/or burying in mulch are the culprits here.

My old bush showed some tip dieback this year for the first time. At first I wanted to blame it on the winter but I guess I am the victim of another fungus disease. The symptoms are the sudden death of usually a small branch starting at the tip. The dead leaves will persist into the summer and if scrapped with a knife, the bark will have a reddish-brown coloration.

Remove the dying tip at least a foot below visible damage as soon as you see it. Sterilize the shears between cuts to prevent spreading the fungus. Spraying with a copper compound is also a deterrent. There are a few other minor problems that good cultural practices will generally prevent. Winter leaf curl in cold weather is normal and generally will not be a problem. The plant is just protecting itself against dehydration.

Rhododendrons and related plants are very shallow rooted. Going into winter after a long summer and fall drought can make the plant more susceptible to winter damage through dehydration. That was not a problem this past winter. For that reason, I keep a plastic five-gallon bucket with a few nail holes in it. It visits my azalea and mountain laurel plantings in the fall if the soil is powdery dry.

The basic rhododendrons and azaleas are easy if you think about the site and planting process and provide minimum care.